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6 Steps to Quiet
Brakes
“You only get one chance to
correctly burnish new brake pads to prevent noise. That is when brake pads are new and rotors have been smoothed
and properly bedded in. The
following 6 Steps are intended to prevent brake noise, not cure existing noise
problems.”
#1
Turn rotor friction surfaces if warped or grooved . . .
If necessary, turn rotors if
warped (run out greater than .002”) or grooved. For best results use GWR Round Cutting Bits.
Mark each rotor and one wheel stud so rotors can be remounted in their
original position.
#2
Smooth rotor friction surfaces . . .
Mark each rotor and one wheel
stud so rotors can be remounted in their original position.
Use *Flex-hone tool with lathe on
new, turned or used rotors to create a cross hatch pattern.
Rotor must be mounted and spinning on a brake lathe.
Flex-hone should be used with an angle head electric drill, turning at
800 RPM. Angle flex-hone slightly,
not flat to the rotor surface to create the cross-hatch pattern.
If Flex-hone is unavailable, use
120 grit wet dry black sandpaper with a rubber sanding block. Use a new
piece of sand paper for each rotor side. Sand
friction surfaces in clock-wise and counterclockwise directions.
Dunk in soap and water often. Spend
at least 3 minutes per side.
#3.
Use GWR Brake Soap and Water to Clean Rotors . . .
Scrub friction surfaces with a stiff plastic bristle brush
dipped in GWR Brake Soap and water. Washing
removes fine imbedded metal particles and demagnetizes the rotor.
Rinse thoroughly with clean water and allow rotors to air dry.
#4
Lightly Spray GWR “Silencer” conditioner onto dry friction surfaces
of rotors . . .
Shake “Silencer” can for about 10 seconds to disperse
solids inside the can - then spray a light
even coat onto each prepared, dry, rotor friction surface.
(2 seconds per side) Do Not
spray brake pads. Mini Silencer can
in kit treats four rotors - inside and outside friction surfaces.
Remount rotors to their original position.
#5.
Coat metal to metal contact points with Pastelub-2400 lubricant . . .
Use Pastelub-2400
Ultra high temperature synthetic dry film lubricant.
To lightly Coat:
A.
Piston Face and Metal backing plate of
pads
B.
Guide landing ears, and all bracket mounting points
C.
The Hat area at the center of the rotor
where rotor meets spindle.
(Be sure to clean any rust from these areas
before applying Pastelub 2400 lubricant.)
D.
Any metal to metal contact points not mentioned above.
.
#6
Bedding in, the “Burnishing Process” . . .
After
prepared and treated rotors are re-installed to their original positions, test
drive the vehicle braking very
gently from 20 mph to 5 mph without coming to a stop.
Your brakes may not “grab” at first, so allow plenty of time to slow
down. Repeat 10 times. Allow
one-half mile cool off between slow downs.
Then brake normally from 40 mph to
10 mph without coming to a stop. Repeat
5 times. Allow one-half mile
cool off between slow downs. No
“panic stops” for the first 300 miles.
If you are breaking in new rotors, park your car for one hour, after
above slow down cycles. A gradual
cool down, for one hour, avoids warping of rotors.
Tip: Warping
of Rotors: If you are an aggressive driver, or track your car – take
your foot off the brake pedal after coming to a stop. Leaving the pad on the rotor acts like a heat sink producing
uneven heat distribution and possible warping of rotors.
Why Burnishing Works…
A
gradual break-in burnish reduces brake vibration and noise by controlling the
pressures and temperatures new pads are exposed to. A 20 pound rotor brings a lot of heat to 3 pound brake pads.
New brake pads that are pushed too hard during break-in will over heat,
glaze, become too hard, may deeply groove rotors, cause vibration, noise, and
not perform well. Using these 6 Steps with GWR products will reduce the
possibility of brake noise, and improve braking torque performance up to 8%.
A more detailed description of GWRs brake products can be found at
www.StopBrakeNoise.com.
